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The jungles of Central America are a far cry from the
genteel surroundings of Dartmouth - but that was the chosen
destination of a group of adventurers from Britannia Royal
Naval College, writes Lt Cdr Paul Rowland.
The 12-strong party of young Naval officers, a submariner
nuclear engineer and an Army IT expert headed to Costa Rica
on Expedition Britannia Challenge, an adventurous training
trip to develop leadership, team and technical kayaking skills
in challenging and unfamiliar surroundings.
The three-week trip to the mountains and jungles of Costa
Rica was split into three phases; a four-day self-supported
trek through primary tropical rainforest in the Corcovado
National Park, a four-day ascent of the highest peak in Central
America - Cerro Chirripo, 3,820m high - followed by two weeks
of kayaking and rafting on the white-water rivers of the central
highlands.
The expedition proved an unqualified success across the spectrum
of the trekking and white-water phases, and provided the robust
and arduous challenge as intended.
The Corcovado peninsula, consisting of some of the remotest
lowland wet forest in the country, provided a challenging
environment, especially as the team had to acclimatise whilst
trekking in the hot and humid climate.
However, the excellent trails and Ranger Posts ensured that
although arduous, the hazards remained relatively benign.
Wet boots and singing frogs all through the night proved
the most tiring irritants, and the mosquitoes proved as good
as the best Highland midges at getting into the tent at night.
The diversity of wildlife was outstanding, ranging from poisonous
snakes and frogs, through many species of bird, to huge blue
morph butterflies and millions of ants.
Close encounters with the nastier aspects of the local inhabitants
were avoided, but dodging the caiman (up to three metres long)
and white tipped reef sharks whilst swimming across the mouth
of the Rio Sirena at the end of one day focused the minds
of all, and saw a few surprisingly energetic Duncan Goodhew
impressions.
Many of the team had not been to altitude before, and the
ascent of Cerro Chirripo, with its steep climbs, was quite
a daunting prospect.
By staying in the Park Ranger refuge near the summit, the
team saved carrying the weight of camping equipment, but it
still took nine hours to climb the first 2,000m after a 4am
start.
Sleep was fitful at an altitude of 3,400m, but the reward
was sweet when they made it to the top of Central America
the following day.
After the obligatory team photo they also bagged the nearby
summit of Cerro Terbi (3,765m).
Views were not the most spectacular, because of low cloud
base, but it was well worth the effort to walk amongst unspoiled
cloud forest.
Doing their bit for the environment, and hoping the extra
weight would aid their tired legs in the descent, they each
carried out 2 kg of rubbish from the Rangers refuge on their
return to civilisation the next day.
After the two trekking phases a short rest was called for,
to sort out kit and rejuvenate tired limbs.
A near perfect campsite was found, in amongst palm trees
and set back around 100m from a practically-deserted sandy
beach, with around a metre of surf on tap.
The Dartmouth team spent two days here fitting out the kayaks
and testing them in the surf.
Throughout the trip they were accompanied by a local guide,
and the majority of the kayaks were hired locally. They had
also hired a large bus for their exclusive use, with accompanying
smiling and joking driver.
The chance to travel the country in the company of locals
was an added bonus to the trip - they always got the best
deals, were taken to the best spots, and were royally looked
after.
After their beachside break, they got down to the serious
business of running the local rivers.
All the young officers were intermediate paddlers, and this
was an excellent opportunity to hone and develop the basic
skills they had learnt on the rivers of Devon and Wales.
A gradual progression of white-water difficulty over the
ten-day period was planned, and seven rivers were paddled
in all, some featuring excellent stretches of water which
were paddled a number of times.
The towns of Dominical and Torrialba were used as bases,
the first on the Pacific coast, the second on the Gulf side
of the central mountain range.
The expedition was carried out in the rainy season, so careful
timing of trips was necessary to avoid the flash floods that
regularly hit the area in mid-afternoon.
T shirts were the order of the day for paddling clothing
as the sun was fierce and the water pleasantly warm. The rivers
varied from big volume pool-drop, to fast and steep boulder-strewn
creeks.
The Rio Pejibaye proved a good choice early on in the river
phase, and was a good mix of technical Grade IV water in its
upper reaches, gradually easing to the easier Grade II and
III water which made an excellent skill development environment.
The Rio Reventazon followed, the team running the 'Power
House' section, to increase the tempo and prepare the team
for the final river of the trip, the Rio Pacuare.
The Pacuare is a real gem, and ranks as one of the top rivers
in Central America.
It took the team two days to cover a 28km section - but what
a two days it was.
Hidden deep in steep valleys covered in impenetrable jungle,
the river runs with clear blue water and has abundant wildlife.
There are over 35 named rapids of grade III/IV, most of them
ending with deep, slow-moving pools - useful for picking out
the odd swimmer.
There are some awesome surfing waves, and many a whoop and
holler were heard echoing around the canyons as each took
their turn in pulling off their fancy moves.
Six of the team took to a raft, while the remainder used
kayaks, and all support equipment was loaded on another raft,
allowing all to enjoy the river to its maximum.
As well as the challenge and fun of the white water there
were side canyons and waterfalls to explore and slide down,
all combining to give the Rio Pacuare a magical quality, and
a fitting end to the expedition.
Coats Rica is an amazingly diverse country and relatively
easy to tour around.
The roads are of good quality, if a bit limited in number,
and although Spanish is the local tongue, many people can
understand English as Americans are frequent visitors.
Food is fairly basic out of the main centres of population,
with black beans being the staple diet.
The Britannia trip would not have been possible without financial
help from DNPTS, HQ 5 Div, the RN & RM Sports Lottery
and the Sailors and Fleet Amenities Fund.
The College's own recreational fund also assisted, and personal
contributions were approximately £600.
All of the Young Officers and the other team members returned
with many great memories and experiences to build on.
The team trekked over 96km and ascended a total of 3,000m
through rainforest, cloud forest and paramo.
On seven rivers they ran a total of 108km, with water graded
up to IV.
This was a rare opportunity for team members to be introduced
to the unique challenges of living in and traversing neotropical
rainforests and of kayaking technical white water.
Both elements gave the chance for serving personnel to sample
real adventure and test themselves in extreme environments.
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